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« Last post by DieHard on June 30, 2020, 10:09:05 AM »
Good point. I've ordered some evaporating radioshack cleaner & new fans, hopefully all goes well!
You may have missed, when we last mentioned this stuff, no need to buy from radio shack; a good (and cheaper) alternative in available at any auto parts store, look for CRC QD "Electronic Cleaner" or equivalent; only $12 a can instead of $40, quick drying, non conductive
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« Last post by joeyvfx on June 29, 2020, 09:07:33 PM »
Good point. I've ordered some evaporating radioshack cleaner & new fans, hopefully all goes well!
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« Last post by Syntho on June 29, 2020, 06:47:25 PM »
One thing I noticed is that when I get the thing where PT quits and I have to relaunch it, simply re-saving the OMS preferences doesn't help. I remember going in there, editing some new synths I got and re-saved that same file, but it kept making PT quit. When I finally just trashed the OMS prefs altogether, it started working again. I guess something in the OMS prefs gets corrupted so actually trashing it instead of saving a new copy is all that works.
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« Last post by macarone on June 29, 2020, 04:53:57 PM »
>the only way to do it is put one in, reboot and wait. If that works, do the next one and so on until I find it.
>Anyone know another way?
Label half the extensions Yellow and then drag them into the Extensions Folder. Restart and pray during boot.. If it boots, change to labels from Yellow to Green. If it doens't boot, Remove half the extensions and label the remaining ones Red. Reboot and pray some more. If it boots, change the Red label to Green. If not, remove the Red ones and replace with the Yellow ones. Reboot, pray and if it boots, change Yellow to Greeen, etc. etc. Then repeat with the second half.
There is also a utility, which I believe is called Extensions Manager, which makes this even easier.
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« Last post by GaryN on June 29, 2020, 03:16:10 PM »
I actually already removed the PSU, cracked it open and tried to clean/desmellify it with some carefully applied vinegar. The only visible grossness was a very thin, light layer of gray residue on one of the inner walls, which was easy to wipe off. The vinegar worked perfectly to destink the outer plastics of the case, but it didn't do squat in the PSU. That's probably because I didn't get to every surface, since it is super dense. I definitely need to take another shot at cleaning it though. The smell fills the room after a while 
That's why i said: "I would just hold it upside down and spray in a 100% evaporating cleaner/solvent to flush the crud off." You can also poke at the crevices while wet with a small paintbrush. Have you ever tried mounting a 120mm fan in place of the two 60mm fans? I read about someone trying that the other night but I forget where I saw it, or how well it worked for them. I feel like that would help with acoustics big time, but I'm not sure about cooling performance. That PSU gets pretty toasty.
That Frankenstein fan replacement required a bunch of custom duct fabrication and sacrifice of the optical cage (so no CD/DVD burner) for a small reduction in sound level and we never did hear how thermally effective it turned out to be. Since you've had your MDD apart, you know how deceptively complex the airflow channels and such are. Messing with that should be attempted only if you have another MDD full of parts to replace the ones you just might burn up. You can (and this is the practical solution) replace the two 60mm's with newer, quieter 60 mm fans as long as you match or at least near-match the airflow ratings. This is not that difficult. The secret of quieter 60mm fans is they use neodymium magnets that have much more flux vs. size and so the overall bulk of the motor is significantly reduced, allowing more airflow…simple. There are a zillion exotic fan makers and fans on the market that didn't exist when Apple designed and built the MDD. With all of the shit they got because of the noise, they would have absolutely used quieter fans if they had been available. It's all a lesson in diminishing returns. I even have a "quiet box" - a very nice enclosure with a heavily insulated interior that encloses the entire computer. However, that requires more fans to move air in and out of the box! Those require sound-deadening zig-zag air ducts to keep the noise from those fans down. If you've ever tried build a studio or just quiet a room for studio use, you know that every time you identify and plug somewhere the outside noise is getting in, you suddenly begin to hear another crack, crevice etc. you didn't hear before, then another and another…… My advice is: Don't think you're a thermodynamics engineer because you can get free, unproven advice on the internet - except mine that is… 
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I know this is an old thread. I couldn't find any forum rules about replying to old threads, but thought this might be relevant... I've been working on getting my PowerMac G4 DA ready for an OS 9 installation, read through this thread, and promptly went about looking for some D-Link DBT-120s rev B2-B4 bluetooth adapters. After finding & purchasing two (just in case I brick one of them) on Fleabay, I realized that these adapters would only work with pre-Bluetooth 4.0/LE devices, which isn't a huge problem, but is definitely limiting. After going back through and reading the post at 0xf8.org and reading the previous post which goes into a bit more detail it seems that the key issue here is that the pre-rev C1 D-Link DBT-120 adapters use a CSR chipset, and CSR chipsets are the only ones that implement HID-proxy mode. So it begged the question: were there any Bluetooth 4.0 adapters that used a CSR chipset implementing HID proxy mode? It winds up there is: the Laird BT820, whose product description states the following: As an additional benefit of the BT800 series, Laird has implemented CSR’s HID (Human Interface Device) Proxy Mode enabling out of the box HID connectivity for BLE pointing devices and / or BLE keyboard functionality, requiring zero host device software or configuration...NOTE: HID Proxy mode on the BT820 works with “Just Works” devices and will not pair with BT devices that require a pincode or passkey I found this device via a wiki page describing providing BT4.0 connectivity for a portable keyboard device called a TextBlade to devices that don't support BT4.0, which bundles the Laird BT820. There are a couple other mentions of similar use cases on Hackintosh pages. At any rate, the wiki page describes a lengthy process of getting all this to work, but I would imagine that the processes are similar for getting most BT4.0 devices working with OS9. It seems like the main challenge is getting a BT4.0 keyboard to pair, and setting the dongle to HID proxy mode without losing the pairing. I've procured a Laird BT820 but still need to get an OS9-compatible video card before I can proceed with testing. One thing I don't completely understand is, if one manages to set up the pairing (presumably while it's still in HCI -native bluetooth stack- mode), and switch the device to HID proxy mode while retaining the pairing, will the dongle continue to present the keyboard & mouse as HID devices no matter the OS? To put it another way, for those of you who have paired a keyboard & mouse with your D-Link DBT-120s, can you use your keyboard & mouse say, everywhere that accepts a usb kb/mouse?
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« Last post by GaryN on June 29, 2020, 02:44:36 PM »
So, Now I know I can get into OS 9, I then put all the extensions and control panels back and boot. I see the Sonnet splash screen but it only loads a few extensions and then craps out...
Buried somewhere in this looong thread is a reference to the "Multiprocessing" folder. Inside there is a file "Apple CPU Plugins". THAT needs to be removed. It's also possible (I say possible because this may be true only if you have dual procs) that you need to replace that file with a modified version. So, use OSX to pull that out of the OS9 System Folder and try again. If it still hangs, you can next try replacing it with the modified one you can find here: http://macos9lives.com/smforum/index.php/topic,4281.msg29466.html#msg29466
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« Last post by y_ito on June 29, 2020, 12:42:27 PM »
I have also confirmed works with VL v2 Expert Editor, W5/7 Editor. Dear, user2020. Does "Korg module" mean the X5 to N series? OMS compatible version available. X05/05 SoundEditor v1.2.1 (for 05R/W,X5,X5D,X5DR) http://www.korg-datastorage.jp/Software/SoundEditor/X505.sea.hqxNS5R SoundEditor v.1.1.1 (for NS5R,NX5R) http://www.korg-datastorage.jp/Software/SoundEditor/NSNX.sea.hqxN1/N5 SoundEditor v1.4.1 (for N5,N5EX,N1,N1R) http://www.korg-datastorage.jp/Software/SoundEditor/N1N5.sea.hqx
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« Last post by Steve_W on June 29, 2020, 12:17:42 PM »
So... progress... I reinstated the OS X 10.5.8 drive I had previously installed, booted from that then manipulated the OS 9 files and folders within... I moved all the extensions and control panels into folders named "Extensions pending" and "control panels pending". I then moved the "sonnet processor upgrade" extension into the extensions folder (with the space at the front so it loads first)... and voilá! It boots into OS 9!
So, Now I know I can get into OS 9, I then put all the extensions and control panels back and boot. I see the Sonnet splash screen but it only loads a few extensions and then craps out...
So next step is work out which extensions are causing the problem and if memory serves, the only way to do it is put one in, reboot and wait. If that works, do the next one and so on until I find it.
Anyone know another way?
This has been quite the mission and I have to say I'm enjoying myself! The other QS never came up so I'm still on this one for the minute... fingers crossed I can get something sorted!
Thanks again guys, I love this comnmunity!
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« Last post by joeyvfx on June 29, 2020, 11:13:15 AM »
I actually already removed the PSU, cracked it open and tried to clean/desmellify it with some carefully applied vinegar. The only visible grossness was a very thin, light layer of gray residue on one of the inner walls, which was easy to wipe off. The vinegar worked perfectly to destink the outer plastics of the case, but it didn't do squat in the PSU. That's probably because I didn't get to every surface, since it is super dense. I definitely need to take another shot at cleaning it though. The smell fills the room after a while Have you ever tried mounting a 120mm fan in place of the two 60mm fans? I read about someone trying that the other night but I forget where I saw it, or how well it worked for them. I feel like that would help with acoustics big time, but I'm not sure about cooling performance. That PSU gets pretty toasty.
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