Apple TOOL?

[FdB]

Okay, the question has come up as to whether or not there’s a proprietary “Apple tool”
for those three-holed nuts on the Flat Panel “iLamps’” chromed pivot-arm. Of course,
I’ve theorized a possible cobbled-together de-vice / tool… but thought I’d openly pose
this question to “them-that-may-know” bettah than I. So... who knows?

Axe-ing for a friend.
*(attached image: BMW motorcycle fork tube cap-wrench)

[Greystash]

Ah I wish I had something that could tighten my iMacs!

[FdB]

Literally or figuratively?

Here's my "shade-tree Mac-mechanic“ idea/approach:

“First, I think I’d place a piece of paper over one and do that pencil-lead rubbing trick to get the actual placement / relation of the holes and then transfer that to a hard piece of wood (oak? or maybe just pine). Then, I’d drill the oak in those three exact spots, slightly smaller than a small finishing nail before driving three finishing nails (keeping them short) through the oak (about an eighth of an inch or less sticking out of the wood). Then... after grinding (dremel) the nail end points flat, I’d see if I could budge the nut before possibly making another such de-vice to hold the other side with, if necessary. Then if the nails bend under torque or if it simply doesn’t work… well it’s back to the old drawing board using harder metal (prongs) possibly “welded” to a small steel arm?”

Now someone will comment that they already make an available tool for this.

[IIO]

i would like to have a tool which allow easy removal of molex connectors from HDs and optical drives. doing that by hand is an imposition of first order. why the f*ck they have these sharp-edged handles when there is no suitable tool for it anyway?

[GaryN]

*

[FdB]

Well, not pretty… but it works. Top arm nuts are easy, those at the base are much tighter. Excess screen yaw might be from the base being loose “inside” main body… or it could be the top nuts, if they’re really loose.

Finishing nails were either too small, or too large (no in-between) but using the smaller ones might have allowed for a little inaccuracy in layout. Had to grind down one of the pins (the topmost pin in the “Mid” image below) to make it work. You can see that the pilot hole wasn’t centered on that one in the pencil rubbing.

One could probably carefully tighten the uppers with only two small nail punches or even appropriately bent finishing nails clamped in vice grips. To get the bottom ones loose, you might need something like this aberration.

(BTW... we’re all pretty much, “Apple Tools”.)

[FdB]

Yo IIO,

“I feel your pain.” -Bill Clinton

To remove molex connectors from HDs and optical drives, etc. I've previously used a very long pair of curved, needle-nosed pliers on drives that I knew were going to be swapped in and out or back and forth. I’ve since changed my approach on all that I now remove, after the first time.

Began using a very light machine oil (one little drop on a cotton swab) to very lightly coat (very carefully) the plastic exterior contact portion of the male molex connector, no-where near the actual contacts (only the very outside bit that fits into the female). Been doing this for years now, with no negative consequences. *(Unless I applied way too much, so that it was also where my fingers gripped it to remove it… which makes it even more difficult to remove.)

Just a very little amount makes a big difference and I’m no longer tempted to jerk by the wires and just yank the difficult ones out. Also a very light coat (just a “hint”) of white lithium grease works just as well.

[GaryN]

Finishing nails were either too small, or too large (no in-between)......

You obviously needed metric nails…

[FdB]

You obviously needed metric nails…

Nope, actually the “pins” were perfect @ 5/64” (almost 2 mm, not quite).
But maybe… I should’ve worn my glasses when plotting the pilot holes.
Close, yet again... no cigar.

[IIO]

oiling is actually a good idea (unless you also oil your fingers), but some special kind of pincers would be the preferred solution. i would probably make one myself if i had a 3D printer.

the design of these plugs is a joke, no idea what they were thinking back in the days.

while there is no protection that the plug do not slip out unintented, it is almost impossible to remove it with your fingers without leaving a pool of blood.

[GaryN]

You obviously needed metric nails…

Nope, actually the “pins” were perfect @ 5/64” (almost 2 mm, not quite).
But maybe… I should’ve worn my glasses when plotting the pilot holes.
Close, yet again... no cigar.

Actually, I was just trying for a stupid joke.

It did later occur to me that there very likely ARE metric-sized nails - just not in the U.S.

D-oh!

[Mardeec]

Fury,

Thanks for the tutorial on making the iLamp wrench.  My 17" is listing badly to the right, and I can see gaps in the top of the arm when I wiggle the monitor side to side.  I'm hoping that tightening the nut will bring everything into alignment, but that's probably wishful thinking.  Anyway, I'll follow your steps, make the tool, and see what happens.  Thanks again!

Marty

[Mardeec]

I was able to get the nuts to turn using this (is it a "pin wrench?"), but the entire assembly turned, so I couldn't loosen/tighten just one nut.  Also, the pin wrench didn't provide much grip or torque, so it looks like two of Fury's tools is the way to go.  I suspect this iMac has spent some time sitting in damp, dusty conditions, so that might contribute to making it harder to get things loose.

[GaryN]

I was able to get the nuts to turn using this (is it a "pin wrench?"),

No. That/those is/are snap ring pliers. They're used for what are essentially heavy-duty C-clips like these.

[Greystash]

Literally or figuratively?

Here's my "shade-tree Mac-mechanic“ idea/approach:

“First, I think I’d place a piece of paper over one and do that pencil-lead rubbing trick to get the actual placement / relation of the holes and then transfer that to a hard piece of wood (oak? or maybe just pine). Then, I’d drill the oak in those three exact spots, slightly smaller than a small finishing nail before driving three finishing nails (keeping them short) through the oak (about an eighth of an inch or less sticking out of the wood). Then... after grinding (dremel) the nail end points flat, I’d see if I could budge the nut before possibly making another such de-vice to hold the other side with, if necessary. Then if the nails bend under torque or if it simply doesn’t work… well it’s back to the old drawing board using harder metal (prongs) possibly “welded” to a small steel arm?”

Now someone will comment that they already make an available tool for this.

Thanks Fury I'll give it a go!!!