Maintaining Your Macintosh

[Protools5LEGuy]

From the OakBog page http://oakbog.com/Mac-Maintenance1.html
Part 1

Sometimes your Mac just doesn't seem as peppy as it used to, particularly if it's been running for a long time. Memory and Disk Problems are the most common causes of routine glitches and sluggishness, especially the dreaded "Spinning Pizza of Death" (aka beachball cursor) that never seems to go away. Sometimes RAM and disk space get used up or becomes fragmented after continuous operation, so periodically it helps to reset the entire system.

Restarting is the classic suggestion most techs give when problems appear. It's a catch all solution, one that experienced users do automatically and beginners always question. Why? Basically, because it's an effective solution a good deal of the time! The procedure is simple, just choose Restart... under the Apple menu and confirm your intention when asked Are You Sure? Upon restart your Mac quits any troublesome programs and resets all RAM and other storage buffers

Here's a tip you don't hear very often: Logging Out in Mac OS X is much quicker then Restarting and often just as effective; usually the problem is with a program you launched rather than the underlying OS. Choose Log Out... under the Apple menu to quit all your applications and return to the login menu, then log back in to your account; This only takes a few seconds instead of a minute or longer, and is worth doing once a week or whenever you Mac acts slugglishly.

Important: you must know your account password to use logout! If you've forgotten it, then click Restart from the login window instead of logging back in.

Sometimes the Restart or Log Out command doesn't work because a program refuses to Quit. Don't pull out the plug unless it's your last resort! Try doing a Force Quit to get rid of the offender: choose Force Quit... under the Apple menu, or hold down the Command (Apple), Option and Escape keys (CMD-OPT-ESC) simultaneously. This brings up the Force Quit window, where you can choose to end a recalcitrant program.

If Force Quit doesn't work more drastic measures are required. On laptops and Mac keyboards with a power button you can Force Restart: hold down the Control, Command (Apple) and Power keys (CTRL-CMD-PWR) simultaneously. Many older Macs also have a force restart button on the front or side of the case, marked with a small triangle; pressing this will also Force Restart.

If neither of these is an option for you, then all Macs support Force Shutdown: press and hold down the Power button on the computer for 5+ seconds and the Mac will shut down. As a last resort only, if none of the above works, then unplug the power cable (and remove the battery if you're running a laptop); that will shut down the computer once and for all. Wait 30 seconds before restarting after a Force Shutdown


Got Enough RAM and Disk Space?

If your programs aren't crashing and you've restarted or logged out repeatedly but things are still sluggish, make sure you have enough RAM and Disk Space for optimal operation. Too little of either slows things down noticeably.

Insufficient RAM is a common cause of delays and the beachball's appearance; Apple's stock RAM install amounts are low. When a shortage of RAM occurs the OS uses the hard disk as additional storage space, which is much slower (this is called virtual memory). Adding more RAM minimizes use of virtual memory. I recommend the following as minimum RAM guidelines:
Mac OS X on PowerPC:
      256MB min, 512MB+ recommended
Mac OS X on Intel:
      512MB min, 1GB+ recommended
Mac OS 9:
        64MB min, 192MB+ recommended

When in doubt, more is better. If you tend to run many programs simultaneously, or use RAM hungry applications like photo and video processing software, then install the maximum RAM your computer will support.

For disk space, a good rule of thumb is to keep at least 10% of your hard disk free; the OS needs some space as temporary storage in regular operation and for virtual memory. For Mac OS X try to make sure that 10% is at least 3GB free; for Mac OS 9, at least 500MB. Hard drives get cheaper all the time, it may be time for more storage.



Routine Disk Maintenance

There is some Disk Maintenance you can perform monthly or when space is low. Delete old documents, downloads and installers which you may no longer need, especially things on the desktop. Delete old email attachments; if you're not sure where those are located, check your email program's Preferences for details. And once deleted, don't forget to Empty the Trash! (Just remember to backup your data first.)

Good disk organization permits easy backups and data management. Keep files and applications in their correct locations. Your personal files should be kept inside your User or Home folder, on the Desktop or inside the Documents, Movies, Music, or Pictures folders. All programs should be in the Applications folder, or "Applications (Mac OS 9)" for Classic. Don't place everything on the Desktop or the Root Level of your hard disk, use the Home folder for organization.

Another form of routine disk maintenance involves Defragmenting or Optimizing the hard drive. Like RAM, disk space becomes disorganized after continuous use with unused chunks and many files stored in little fragments across the disk. This causes the disk to work harder to find and save data, and hence slower. Optimizing rearranges your data into continuous chunks to improve disk efficiently. It's very important to backup your data before optimizing a disk, in case something goes awry during the process. TechTool Pro and Drive Genius both provide optimization routines for Mac OS X.

With hard disks relatively inexpensive these days I no longer optimize my drives; instead I prefer to use Disk Cloning as a method to both defragment and backup my hard drive in the same operation. By making a clone of my drive I start with the backup process; the cloning (copying) operation serves to defragment my files as they're transferred to the destination drive. Once finished I boot off the clone, erase my source drive, then clone the (defragmented) contents back. Viola! A defragmented drive complete with a bootable backup.

This entire process is usually faster than the separate backup and optimization steps would take, and it always keeps a working copy of my data available. For more about cloning and backups, see part 3 of this article, Maintaining Your Macintosh - Backup Strategies.



Sleep or Shut Down?

It's a common question: should I shut down the computer when I'm done or just let it go to sleep? Opinions vary; here's my take on the whole affair:

Mac OS X is a UNIX based Operating System designed for 24/7 operation; UNIX powers things like major internet and financial servers which need to run reliably all the time. As such Mac OS X contains automatic tuneup scripts that run at daily, weekly or monthly rates. These routines (called cron scripts) help make your system more efficient by purging RAM and cache files, quitting stalled processes and (since Mac OS X 10.4) automatically defragmenting important files on your hard drive. Simply put, a Mac running Mac OS X will run better when left powered on and set to Sleep when not in use.

However excess power consumption is a nontrivial issue and a real cost to you and society. You can use System Preferences --> Energy Saver to adjust your Sleep settings as needed. Typically using 20-30 minutes is a good starting point, then you can tweak as desired. While sleeping your computer will use as little power as possible but keep itself tuned up. Sometimes USB or FireWire drives prevent a system from going to sleep, so unmount and turn off external drives when not in use.

If you're away for a week or more, and you're not using your Mac as a server to share files or printers, then consider shutting things down. Also note that automatic system tuneup operations are for Mac OS X systems only; Mac OS 9 users can use Sleep or Shut Down as they prefer, with no change in system performance.

Another reason to shut down is thunderstorms. Not only can lightning come over an AC line to reach your computer (even possible with a surge protector), but a lightning strike can also take out power in your area, shutting down the computer. It's much safer to do a controlled shut down than lose power, lose unsaved work, and risk damage to computer.

Part 2 http://oakbog.com/Mac-Maintenance2.html

Directory Damage or Computer Won't Boot

The disk directory is the table of contents for your hard drive. Directory errors build up slowly over time, or quickly after a crash. Such errors can cause problems opening or saving files, or if severe enough can prevent your Mac from starting up, instead displaying the flashing question mark. Fixing the disk directory and boot blocks often helps resolve these kinds of problems.

DiskWarrior is my tool of choice to fix directory related problems. You will need to restart your Macintosh from the DiskWarrior CD to fix the internal hard drive. When DiskWarrior is ready, select your startup drive and click Rebuild Directory. Replace your existing directory when the process is complete, then restart normally to see if your problem is fixed.

Other disk utilities are worth trying when DiskWarrior doesn't help. Apple's Disk Utility has a Repair Disk function that sometimes gets you going - you can restart from your Mac OS X Install CD/DVD and run Disk Utility to fix your startup drive. At a more sophisticated level TechTool Pro and Drive Genius let you test for various hardware damage and try to repair errors; both also come on a bootable CDs or DVDs.

For Mac OS 9 and Classic users, Apple's Rebuild Desktop routine can help fix problems opening files in Mac OS 9 applications. For Classic Users running Mac OS X, use System Preferences --> Classic --> Advanced tab to rebuild the desktop. If you're booted in Mac OS 9, restart the Mac while holding down the Command (Apple) and Option keys (CMD-OPT) simultaneously until you are asked if you want to Rebuild the Desktop.


Repairing File Permissions

File Permissions are security settings that permit or restrict access to files and folders by different users. This security helps prevent you from modifying special system files you shouldn't change, and prevents other users from seeing the files inside your Home folder when you share a machine. The easiest way to view or set a file's permissions is to select the file (or folder) and choose Get Info in the Finder (File --> Get Info, or CMD-I). The Ownership & Permissions area shows who can do what with that file.

While noble in intent, incorrectly set file permissions can sometimes prevent you from launching applications or saving files. They can also cause problems with OS updates. Apple is aware of this and so provides a way to Repair Permissions that restores defaults and fixes many problems. Use Apple's Disk Utility, select your boot drive, then choose the First Aid tab (if necessary) and click Repair Permissions. Let the process run completely.

TIP: Repair Permissions before and after any System Software updates for best results.



Non-Volatile Memory

The contents of your computer's RAM are normally lost when you shut down, but some settings are saved when the power is off: the date and time, your network settings, choice of startup disk, etc.. These settings are stored in a special type of RAM called Non-Volatile RAM (NV-RAM) or Parameter RAM (PRAM). A small battery on the motherboard powers this special RAM when the computer is turned off.

Sometimes the PRAM gets corrupted, especially after a hard crash. Corrupt PRAM can prevent your Mac from booting and causes all sorts of strange errors. Resetting (or Zapping) the PRAM can fix problems like these: restart your Mac .and after it chimes hold down the Command (Apple), Option, P and R (CMD-OPT-P-R) keys simultaneously. After a few seconds the system will restart again and chime a second time. Now release keys the keys and boot normally.

Another problem could be that the PRAM backup battery may be dead. This is typically a 3.6V Li-ion battery which lasts about 5 years. If the date and time on your computer are wrong each time you unplug Mac, then it's time to replace the battery. The battery is accessible on most tower Macs, otherwise a Mac service center can do this for you.



Other Mac Tricks

To Eject a Stuck CD or DVD, especially with a slot loading drive, try this: restart your Mac and hold down the mouse or trackpad button continuously until the disc ejects. The works 90% of the time.

On PowerPC-based Macs you can also Boot into Open Firmware (which really impresses your friends and coworkers). Open Firmware is Mac's BIOS and provides a few additional options for sick systems. Restart your Mac and after the chime hold down the Command (Apple), Option, O and F (CMD-OPT-O-F) keys simultaneously. Eventually the system will boot to a white screen with ok> prompt.

You can very thoroughly zap PRAM from this screen, even better than using CMD-OPT-P-R; type the following lines:

- ok> reset-nvram <RETURN>
- ok> reset-all <RETURN> (system will then reboot)

You can also use Open Firmware to eject CDs/DVDs that won't eject any other way:

- ok> eject cd <RETURN>

Sadly the Intel-based Macs do not have Open Firmware, so equivalent tricks are still waiting to be found!

Part 3 http://oakbog.com/Mac-Maintenance3.html

Maintaining Your Macintosh
Part 3 - Backup Strategies

    Choose Your Method
    Incremental Backups
    Bootable Backups (Clones)

    Written By: Adam Rosen
    September 2007

    Choose Your Method

    Everyone knows they need to backup their data, but most people don't do so regularly (if at all). Backups are confusing and annoying, who has time? Well, your perspective may change during a post-crash enlightenment; most people become religious about backups after their first catastrophic loss of data! The best Mac Maintenance you can do is to have current backups of all your files.

    The key is to develop a backup strategy before that major disk crash, and pick methods that are easy for you to do and repeat, so it becomes a habit. Backup important personal data on a daily or weekly basis. A basic data backup simply involves copying important files and folders to other media. You can use any of the following items as backup destinations:

        - copy to a 2nd hard drive (internal or external)
        - copy to networked hard drive or fileserver
        - copy to removable legacy storage drives (Zip, Jaz, SyQuest, etc.)
        - copy to removable USB flash memory drives, or your iPod
        - burn files to optical disc (CD-R, CD-RW, DVD-R, etc.)

    What are these important files and folders? They're anything that you use on a regular basis, and would cause problems if you lost. Under Mac OS X most of your important files should be located inside your Home directory, in one of these folders:

        Desktop, Documents, Movies, Music or Pictures

    Just copy these entire folders to a backup disk on a regular basis. You may also wish to backup your Application Preference files; these are very useful to have if you need to reinstall any software. Preferences are also located in your Home directory, inside the Library folder. Copy the whole Preferences folder along with your backups.


    Incremental Backups

    Once you have a backup of your data, you can use Incremental Backups keep the data up to date. An incremental backup copies only new or changed files since the last backup, leaving identical files alone. This is faster than running a full backup and easy to do on a weekly basis.

    Simple incremental backups can be done manually - just recopy to your clone any items you've worked on since the last backup. View folders containing your important files in List View in the Finder, and click on the Date column to sort by date; this makes it easy to find recent files. Or just drag the whole folder(s) full of your important files to your backup disk, that's very simple and still usually faster than a complete backup.

    For more complex needs (or for those of us with bad memory), utilities such as File Synchronization, Carbon Copy Cloner, SuperDuper, or Data Backup can help automate this process. These synchronization utilities allow you to specify one or more folders to copy, and the computer does the hard work of determining what files have changed since the last backup. For ultra-configurable incremental backups of multiple computers and across networks, the best choice is Retrospect.

    Subscribers to Apple's .Mac service can also use the Apple Backup application to save backups online, or to local & networked drives; see Apple's .Mac website for full details.


    Bootable Backups (Clones)

    Bootable Backups or Clones are full backups of your entire startup drive that provide full redundancy for your data and the Operating System. Once you make a clone of your hard drive you can restore files from this drive when needed or boot off clone in case the primary drive fails. With hard drive prices falling all the time, this is one of the fastest and most convenient ways to backup your system.

    You need to have a 2nd internal hard disk (IDE or SATA) an external FireWire drive, or an external USB2.0 drive (Intel Macs only) in order to make a bootable clone. My preference is to use external FireWire drives since they can be used with all Macs, stored on a shelf or offsite and easily moved between computers.

    Several utilities are available to help make the clone, including Carbon Copy Cloner, SuperDuper, and Data Backup. The process erases the destination drive, copies all files from the source drive, then makes the cloned drive bootable; the procedure varies slightly among these programs. so read the instructions/help files before proceeding.

    When complete, make sure to test that your cloned drive works to boot your Mac. It's not fun to find out you have a bad backup months later when you need it most. Just go to System Preferences --> Startup Disk, select your clone as the boot drive, then Restart your Mac. Once you're sure it works, repeat the process to set your internal drive back as the startup disk. You now have a full bootable backup of your computer ready when needed.

    Once you have a working clone, Incremental Backups can be used to keep the clone's data up to date. I like to use File Synchronization to keep my home directory current between the primary and backup drives, I run this once/week or as often as necessary after changes to my sysem. Carbon Copy Cloner and SuperDuper can be used to automate full or partial incremental clone updates, but be sure to allow enough time (typically overnight) for this process to finish.

    I suggest making full clones of your computer every 3 to 6 months, and before you install any updates to Mac OS X or major applications. If something then goes wrong during an upgrade, you can use your clone to revert back to the older install and keep working, or just work off the clone itself.

     
    Whatever method(s) you choose, get started now and do so regularly. Different backup strategies and media can be combined; there's no harm in having too many copies of your data. Consider keeping a copy of important files offsite in a different location (at work, in a safety deposit box, with a friend) in case of fire or other damage to your home.

    Also purchase the major applications you use regularly, and keep copies of any downloaded installers. Besides being the right (legal) thing to do, if you have a hard drive crash or otherwise lose an important program you can easily reinstall your software from the original disks or installers.

    Remember: the best Mac Maintenance you can do is to have current backups of all your files!

Part 4 http://oakbog.com/Mac-Maintenance4.html

The task of updating software on your Macintosh can be a variable experience, ranging from mundane to annoying to catastrophic, depending on what gets updated and how successful the process goes. Some people never update, some live on the bleeding edge, and most just live with default auto-update and nothing else. Understanding when it is and isn't necessary to update your computer, and doing so in a methodical and reliable fashion, can ensure that you remain both relatively current and continuously working with your Macintosh.


When Should You Update?

I am not a fan of updating for updating's sake. I don't like being an unwilling beta tester, and I don't want existing features in my software to stop working just because a new version exists. Computers are tools, they need to work and remain stable and productive. Updating more than you need has a downside besides potential cost, it increases the potential for things that could go wrong. The key is update sanity is knowing when an update is really necessary. Ask yourself the following questions:

    - Does the update add a feature or capability I need?
    - Does the update fix a bug or problem I have?
    - Does the update address a major security concern?

If you answer yes to any question, backup your system, then update (see below).
If you answer no to all questions, if it ain't broke don't fix it (my favorite tech support motto)!

A prudent update strategy to maximize stability with any software is to avoid "Point Oh" releases (e.g., Mac OS X 10.4.0, iTunes 7.0). If you don't need the features or fixes of a major update immediately, wait until a few subsequent minor updates have been released before taking the plunge. Instead of installing Mac OS X 10.5 upon it's release, waiting until 10.5.2 (or so) is available ensures that any early release bugs get fixed and applications can be updated for compatibility as needed. Early releases are often really public beta tests by another name.

A related strategy with Mac OS X is to update to the last point release of your flavor of OS X when the next major version is released. On the day that Mac OS X 10.5 "Leopard" is released, the final release of Mac OS X 10.4 "Tiger" (10.4.11) will be the most stable and compatible version of Tiger ever to be available. 10.5.0 is a "point oh" release with lots of bugs and incompatibilities. Give Leopard some time, the last version of Tiger will be supported for years to come.

Regardless of how you decide when it's time to update, do so on your schedule and needs, not based on marketing or Auto-Update mechanisms. Computers are not automatically obsolete in 18 months time, nor is software, but certain components may need updating on a regular basis


Types of Updates

There are three main types of software updates you can perform on your Mac:

Major System Updates

Major System Updates include Mac OS X Full Version Updates (10.3 to 10.4, 10.4 to 10.5, etc.) and QuickTime Full Version Updates (6.x to 7.x, etc.). These updates add significant functionality to your Mac but may require more RAM, disk space or a faster processor than your current system has. Major Mac OS X updates are $129 ($199 for a 5-user "family pack") and must be purchased at retail. QuickTime updates are free and downloadable, but if you're using QuickTime Pro a new key is required at $29 with each full version change. Having a backup of your data - preferably your whole system - is essential before performing major system updates.

For OS updates you must decide if the feature set of the new OS is worth the cost and how well it will run on your Mac (if at all). Hardware which just barely meets the minimal requirements for an OS update, especially with slower CPU speeds, may be better served by continuing to use a previous OS release. I tend to keep Mac OS 9 on systems running below 300MHz, Mac OS X 10.3.9 on faster G3s and slower G4s, and Mac OS X 10.4.x on everything newer. When Mac OS X 10.5 is released I will probably keep my G4s running 10.4 and evaluate how well the new OS runs on G5 systems before updating. Intel based Macs can all handle 10.5, but may need more RAM before updating.


Minor System Updates

Minor System Updates include Mac OS X Point Releases (10.4.9 to 10.4.10), Mac OS X Security Updates, QuickTime Point Releases (7.1.6 to 7.2), Java, Airport and related Apple Components. Most minor updates are bug fixes, security patches or address new hardware released from Apple. There is typically no cost for these updates and almost all are available through the online Apple Software Update mechanism or the Apple Website.

Whether or not to apply minor system updates is a tough question. Apple's default settings encourage you to do so regularly by enabling Auto-Update in System Preferences and checking weekly. But as a support tech it's not uncommon for me to get calls from clients who auto-update their Mac overnight and the next morning the computer won't boot. These problems can usually be avoided by updating manually and having a backup, as described below, but Macs are not Windows machines and in my experience perform best when updated as needed rather then regularly.

Security Updates warrant a special mention. Apple releases new security updates only for the most current point release of Mac OS X, along with (sometimes) the last point release of the previous major version; e.g., as of this writing (Sep 2007) Apple will release security updates only for 10.4.10 and 10.3.9. If you are running an older version of 10.4.x not all new security updates will be available to you.

I disagree with Apple's strategy on this issue. There are many valid reasons why a user may stick with an older point release of Mac OS X: a key application isn't yet compatible with newer versions, some OS X releases are more stable than others, people haven't had time yet to backup, etc.. I believe Apple should support all versions of their current operating system with security patches, and provide the Auto-Update mechanism with a preference to handle security updates only if desired. Microsoft has a more flexible policy in this regard than Apple.

If you feel it is imperative to always have the latest Apple security patches, you must keep your system current. In practice I have found that most Mac security issues cause relatively few problems for typical users, far fewer problems than the auto-updating itself causes, so I perform minor system updates every few versions and keep up-to-date backups.


Application Updates

Application updates also include Major New Versions (iTunes 6.x to 7.x) and Minor Point Releases (iTunes 7.4.1. to 7.4.2). As with System Updates, new versions typically introduce many new features and capabilities, while point releases primarily address bug fixes and occasionally a few features. The same guidelines apply to updating applications as system software (both Apple and third party programs):

    - Does the update add a feature or capability I need?
    - Does the update fix a bug or problem I have?
    - Does the update address a major security concern?

Yes to one of these? Backup, then update. No to all? If it ain't broke don't fix it!


How to Update Reliably

I have never lost any data or rendered my Mac unusable after an update by following these steps:

(1) Backup your Mac before Updating. If possible use a Clone or Bootable Backup.

I can't stress this highly enough - backup before updating! If things go wrong and you have a backup, you can copy from or boot off the backup and restore your old system. At the very least make sure you have a copy of your important data. Better yet are fully bootable backups (clones) that let you revert to an older system or keep working immediately if problems happen at critical times. See part 3 of this article, Maintaining Your Macintosh - Backup Strategies for more information on Bootable Backups


(2) Restart Your Mac and Repair File Permissions.

Restarting quits any running (or crashed) programs and ensures that everything is running as smoothly as possible before you start updating. You don't want to run other applications or multitask while updating, just let the installer do it's thing.

Incorrectly set file permissions can cause problems with OS updates not completing successfully. Use Apple's Disk Utility application (inside Applications --> Utilities) to select your boot drive, choose the First Aid tab (if necessary), then click Repair Permissions. Let the process run completely before continuing.


(3) Run a Disk Utility if necessary.

If your disk is behaving poorly, programs are crashing frequently or files aren't opening properly, run a disk utility on the boot drive after backing up but before applying the update. Trying to update already damaged or corrupt software can often make problems worse. My tool of choice for this task is DiskWarrior; for more info on fixing disk problem see part 2 of this article, Maintaining Your Macintosh - Disk and Hardware Problems.


(4) Obtain and Install the Update.

To repeat, don't use your Mac for other tasks while updating - let the installer do it's work. It's especially important not to make changes to your files while the installer is Optimizing Your Drive; using the drive while this step is in progress can often lead to an unbootable Mac.

For Mac OS X Major Version Updates you must install from a CD or DVD. The installer will reboot your Mac, or you can boot off the CD/DVD directly by restarting with the disc in the drive and holding down the C key. The installer will give you a choice of which drive to install Mac OS X onto - typically your internal hard disk. Before proceeding past this page click on the Options... button in the Installer window and (if possible) select Archive and Install as your update method and enable Preserve Users and Network Settings. This method replaces your existing installation of OS X with a fresh copy rather than updating the old install, while keeping your user data intact.

Note that you need a full retail copy of Mac OS X to use Archive and Install. An OS X Updater disc typically does not offer this option, and you have to update rather than replace your existing OS.


For Mac OS X Minor Version Updates it's best to use downloaded Mac OS X Combo Updaters rather than the Apple Software Update mechanism. Downloading updaters in advance ensures that you don't need to worry about an interrupted network connection during the update, plus the updater can be saved for future use. Combo Updaters tend to work more reliably than the Single Version Updaters and include cumulative updates and patches so you can jump more than one point level at a time if needed.

Mac OS X 10.4.x comes in separate updates for PowerPC and Intel Macs. Make sure to get the Combo Update versions. You can find these updates at: http://www.apple.com/downloads/Mac OS X/apple/Mac OS X_updates/


For QuickTime (all releases) it's also best to use downloaded installers, for the same reasons. QuickTime is a major system component and is notorious for breaking software with new releases, so be wary of updating QT unless you truly need to (and keep your backup current). QuickTime installers can be found at: http://www.apple.com/quicktime/download/


For Other System Software (Security Updates, Airport, Java, etc.) the online Apple Software Update mechanism is the easiest (and often the only) way to obtain these patches. Make sure to backup and repair permissions first, and uncheck any boxes for Mac OS X versions and QuickTime in the Software Update list since you'll be handling these manually. Apply any Apple miscellaneous updates like these after any system software version updates are performed if you're doing both at the same time.


For Application updates (both Apple and 3rd party) most patches today are available online. If you have the opportunity to download a newer full copy of an application rather than updating an existing copy, do that when possible. Next best is a standalone updater. If neither of these choices are available, then you must use whatever online mechanism the developer provides for updates.

I often find it helpful to make a copy of an application and that application's data, support and preference folders before updating it. As long as the updater doesn't install any system or kernel extensions (these items typically require a restart), it's easy to revert to an older setup if the update doesn't work by replacing the newer files with older versions. Check in the following locations for an application's files (~ is a shortcut for your home directory):

    /Library
    /Library/Application Support

    ~/Library
    ~/Library/Preferences
    ~/Library/Application Support
    ~/Documents
    ~/Movies
    ~/Music
    ~/Pictures


(5) Repair File Permissions Again.

After your update is done (and after a reboot if required), run Repair Permissions a second time with Disk Utility. This fixes any permissions problems caused by the updater itself, some of which take a lot of shortcuts.



Disable Auto-Update

Auto-Updating software is (after clueless users) the Computer Tech's Bane of Existence. Due to security issues with some products and platforms it's become default behavior to have an auto-update capability, but this feature is not always your friend. Updating one piece of software, particularly an OS component, can affect many other things; you may come in one morning to find your computer has been updated and now something doesn't work or the Mac won't boot.

It can be even worse when QuickTime gets updated: suddenly your stable version of QuickTime 6.5.2 Pro becomes an unstable version of QuickTime 7.0 Free, and you need to purchase your QuickTime Pro key again! To prevent this, update only on your schedule. Turn off the auto-update options for your OS, it's associated components, and all applications.

For Mac OS X and other Apple software, use System Preferences --> Software Update to disable the weekly check. For Applications you can usually find an Auto-Update setting in the Application's Preferences or in one of its Menus. Note that many System and Application updates re-enable Auto-Update after updating, so check and make sure things are still under manual control when you're done.

Have a headache yet? Yearning for an abacus or a paper notebook? The attractions of Luddism have been known to make themselves apparent to many computer users from time to time - you are in good company!

[supernova777]

thats one hell of a quote block;)
 

Written By: Adam Rosen
September 2007

[Protools5LEGuy]

thats one hell of a quote block;)

Yeah. The text is more OSX centered than OS9 but given the knowledge of Protools and Classic from the author, it worth having here "complete".

Maybe DH or Mactron can tell us their Maintaining routines. Rebuilding the desktop seems popular...